The San Juan Islands are situated off the northwest
corner of Washington State. The islands are the remains
of an ancient mountain range that over the ages settled,
surrounded by the sea, sculpted by glacial sheets that
covered them and receded. The granite heart of the mountains
remains, still displaying the scars of the glaciers'
journey southward. The soft glacial till which settled
in the lowlands has fostered forests and meadows. The
constant pounding of waves and blowing winds have formed
a myriad of shapes along the coastline, ranging from
wide, bay-bottom flats and long, curving sand spits
to rugged, bedrock fissures that boldly challenge the
never-ending surge of the waves.
This is a brawny, independent area that appeals to people
who believe in their rights and are willing to stand
up for them. This attitude is evidenced by one of the
most important historical events in the area history,
that of the "Pig War". The San Juan Islands
were originally part of the Oregon Country, which was
land comprised of todayís states of Washington, Oregon,
Idaho, parts of Montana and Wyoming, and the Province
of British Columbia. The Joint Occupation Treaty of
1818 opened the Oregon Country to both British and American
settlers. Of course, that was destined to fail as both
sides tried to keep the other side out. By June of 1846,
the Oregon Treaty was drawn up, giving the U.S. possession
of the Northwest south of the 49th parallel, but created
addition problems because its wording left unclear as
to who really owned San Juan Island.
The Hudson's Bay Company established a salmon-curing
station on the island in 1851 and a sheep ranch called
Bellevue farm. But there were also about 25 hardy Americans
living on the island, and neither side recognized the
authority of the other.
The crisis began on June 15, 1859, when an American
settler shot and killed a pig belonging to the Hudson's
Bay Company because it was rooting in his garden. The
British authorities threatened to arrest him, and the
Americans reacted by drawing up a petition requesting
U.S. military protection. The disagreement escalated
until ultimately there were 461 Americans, protected
by 14 cannons standing firm against five British warships
with 167 guns and 2,140 troops. President Buchanan finally
stepped in by sending out Gen. Winfield Scott to secure
an agreement with the governor of the Crown Colony of
British Columbia whereby a token force from each nation
would occupy San Juan until a final settlement could
be reached. The island remained under joint military
occupation for the next 12 years, the agreement finally
was sent to Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany for settlement.
The emperor ruled in favor of the U.S., and the Royal
Marines withdrew from English Camp. By July 1874, the
U.S. troops left American Camp and peace returned to
the 49th parallel. San Juan Island will be remembered
as a military confrontation in which the only casualty
was a pig!
It is the sheer, glorious beauty of the area that is
the main draw for visitors - not casinos, not the nightlife,
not the shopping (though there is some wonderful local
art available), not wild rides on Jetskis on gin-clear
waters. No, it is the simple quiet pleasures of hiking,
kayaking, fishing, watching in awe as Orcas put on a
show right beside your boat, staring, slack-jawed as
bald eagles wheel and float overhead. It is a place
where the saying "take nothing but pictures, leave
nothing but footprints" is not just a saying, it
is a way of life. A charter in this area is synonymous
with a carefree, active outdoor lifestyle, to be enjoyed
like great gulps of the clean fresh air!
The number of San Juan Islands seems to be up for grabs;
as there are anywhere from 172 to more than 700 islands.
The question is what you count as an island. Can is
just be a rock; and if the rock submerges during high
tide, is it still an island? The best guess seems to
be simply ěmore than 200î. The three largest islands
are Orcas Island, San Juan Island and Lopez Island.
Lopez Island touts itself as "The Friendly Island".
Well, they all seem really friendly, but since Lopez
Island is the least populated and has the highest concentration
of people making their living by agriculture (and we
all know that farmers are by their very nature, friendly)
we will not argue the point and simply acknowledge that
it is the Friendly Island. One of the enterprises on
Lopez is the Lopez Island Vineyards, which happens to
be a nationally acclaimed winery. Indeed, a visit to
their tasting room for a sample of their delicious and
unique wines will probably make everyone friendly. The
agriculture theme continues with the Farmersí Market
in Lopez Village, where an amazing variety of locally
produced items are for sale, including rosemary necklaces.
San Juan Island is the second largest of the archipelago
and the most heavily populated. You can visit the American
Camp, located in the southern portion of the island,
or the English Camp, located further up the coast to
the northwest. Just leave your pig at home, please!
The two towns on San Juan that are the most noteworthy
for visiting are Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor. In
the summer, there is a bus that makes a loop run between
the two villages, letting you take in both places and
a bit of inland scenery too, without spending too much
time ashore! Friday Harbor, population 2000 is the government
and commercial center of the San Juan Islands. But since
it serves as the terminus for several ferries, the town
swells with tourists during the summer months. The result
is many boutiques, galleries, shops and restaurants
to serve them. Roche Harbor dates back to 1886, and
has played host to many famous people throughout the
years. The historic Hotel de Haro played host to President
Teddy Roosevelt in 1906 and 1907. John Wayne was also
a frequent guest, in fact, his boat is still berthed
in Roche Harbor Marina. A lively village full of history
and fun, Roche Harbor should certainly be on your ěto
doî list!
Orcas Island is the largest of the San Juans, looking
like a very chubby horseshoe, with the indentation being
made by East Sound. The physical beauty of Orcas Island
is its primary attraction. For those in great physical
shape, a trip to the top of Mount Constitution on foot
or by bike is possible; for those who prefer to save
their energy for kayaking or other things, hiring a
car to go to the top is a better option. Either way,
the view is nothing short of spectacular. From the peak
you can see the San Juan and Canadian Gulf islands,
snow-capped Mount Baker, the Olympics, and on a clear
day, Mount Rainier. The vista is definitely worth the
effort.
Orcas Island has long attracted artists, working in
traditional media such as oil and watercolor painting
as well as fabric and pottery. Pottery in particular
has a long tradition on the island, with creation, glazing
and firing techniques passed down from one generation
to another. The earthenware pottery that you buy, which
is created and sold in the many galleries and studios,
will serve as gentle reminders of the wonderful time
you had when you visited the area.
The larger islands are what will bring you to the area,
but it is the smaller, secret areas that your captain
has discovered that will bring you back time and again.
The quiet times you spent on your charter holiday, simply
gazing out at the cool green of evergreen forests backing
up to rocky shores, the laughter that spilled out as
you learned to master your kayak, and the warmth of
your loved oneís hand in yours as they squeezed it in
happiness when they first saw the whales come close,
this is what you work for. This is what memories are
made of.
back to top
Stuck
in another traffic jam. The third one this afternoon.
After a long day at the office, you just want to
get home. The sun is beating down; the heat shimmering
off the pavement. The air-conditioning in your car
is working overtime trying to keep up with the oven
blast temperatures that surround you. You turn on
the radio; the station is playing "Hot Town,
Summer in the City". You turn the radio back
off and try to think cool thoughts - thoughts of
deep evergreen shaded glades, of cool star-light
evenings, the sound of Orcas splashing beside your
yacht. Ahhh, that's better. So much better in fact,
that you try to figure out where you put that charter
yacht catalog that you received from your charter
agent.