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New Zeland | View
a sample itinerary for this location
New Zealand has it all. Viewed from the
deck of a charter yacht,she is an endless delight. Deep fiords
carve inland along the west coast of South Island. The Bay
of Islands on the upper east side of North Island is blessed
with an abundance of islands, there are secluded anchorages
and white sand beaches that make the sandy beaches of the
Caribbean blush with embarrassment. Marlborough Sounds, located
between North and South Island is a cruising heaven of towering
forest-clad mountains sheltering tranquil bays and coves.
Abundant sea life includes majestic whales
and playful dolphins, the fishermen and divers onboard will
revel in the water’s
bounty. I really don’t think you can possibly do justice
to the magnificence of what New Zealand offers without staying
at least two weeks. You will need one week to view her riches
from the water, and another week to indulge yourself in
her incredibly varied landscape. New Zealand will appeal
to those individuals yearning for: active volcanoes, glaciers,glow-worm
lit caves, subtropical forests,miles of white sand beaches,
landscapes straight out of Lord of the Rings (oh,that’s
right, it IS Middle Earth!); people with a penchant for
kayaking, hiking,rappelling over cliffs into the rivers
below. Let’s
not forget the sophisticated side of New Zealand either:
the countless golf courses, museums,wineries, fabulous
restaurants, and yes,there IS a 24 hour casino located
in Auckland for those who absolutely have to go gambling.
How is it that such a multi-faceted landscape can exist
in a land so small? Slightly larger in size to the UK,
the terrain is as varied as that of countries multiple times
its size. It all goes back to the favorite mantra of the
real estate agent: location, location, location. Remember
studying plate tectonics when you were in Fourth Grade?
Here it is, all over again: New
Zealand broke away from the super continent of Gondwanaland
perhaps 100,000 million years ago.
New Zealand sits astride
two tectonic plates – the Pacific and the Australian.
The North Island and some parts of the South Island sit
on the Australian Plate, while the rest of South Island
sits on the Pacific Plate. Because these plates are constantly
shifting into each other, New Zealand gets a lot of geological
action, to say the least. The North Island has a “spine”
of mountain ranges running through the middle, with rolling
farmland on both sides.
The central section is dominated
by The Volcanic Plateau, an active volcanic and thermal
area. The massive Southern Alps form the backbone of South
Island; to the west, fiords drop into the Tasman Sea, while
the eastside stretches from rolling farmland to the vast
Canterbury Plains.The Southern Alps are home to a number
of glaciers, the largest being the Tasman Glacier, the most
famous are the Franz Josef and Fox. These spectacular glaciers
are easily accessible, whether you choose to walk up to
them, or do a helihike: fly up by helicopter and walk down.
Thanks to its location and inaccessibility, unique flora
and fauna has evolved, with large numbers of native birds
and plants, as well as direct descendants of prehistoric
wildlife,including the tuatara, weta,and giant snail.
Time
magazine once described New Zealand as the“ultimate
storehouse for discontinued zoological models”. Okay,
everybody can figure out what a giant snail is,but what
in the world is a“weta”? Well,
let me tell you…a weta is an insect,believed to be
over 100,000million years old, and are known as the dinosaurs
of the insect world. Found only in New Zealand, they look
like across between a grasshopper and a cockroach, and are
about the size of a mouse. They are nocturnal, as are their
predators…the
tuatara! Next question…what is a tuatara?Glad you asked.
It’s a reptile, it’s nocturnal, (unfortunately
for the weta!) and it has a third eye. Yes, really, it
does! When it is young,there is a third eye on the top
of its head, which eventually becomes covered over with
scales.
Since the separation of New Zealand from
Gondwanaland occurred prior to mammals showing up, the birds,
reptiles and insects have evolved in spectacular ways to
fill in the gaps. For example, the now extinct flightless
moa bird grew to almost twelve feet tall and browsed open
grasslands like the cattle do today. The equally flightless
kiwi is much smaller with a round body covered in coarse
feathers and a long,distinctive bill with nostrils at the
tip for sniffing out food. The kiwi is the country’s
national emblem and of course the nickname for New Zealanders
themselves. Other
well-known New Zealand native birds include the kea, weka
and the takahe.Now that we have set the scene, who arrived
first, and when? Solid archaeological evidence indicates
1200 A.D., but much earlier dates have been suggested for
the first human impact on the environment.
There is no doubt
that the first settlers were the Polynesian forebears of
today’s
Maori. Prime sites for first settlement were the warm coastal
regions, sources of workable stone, and areas of abundant
big game. High protein diets from hunting the moa and other
flightless birds, plus large sea-mammals such as fur seals,
all unaccustomed to being hunted, likely boosted population
growth. Within 200 years, the big-game supply was in rapid
decline with the moa extinct or close to it and the fur-seal
colonies hunted out. Maori economics turned from big game
to small game, and from hunting to gardening and fishing.
These changes in turn brought about the need for a more
complex communal organization, which gave rise to the Maori
tribes. Competition for resources increased, conflict between
tribes became inevitable, leading to the building of sophisticated
fortifications, known as pa. Remnants of pa earthworks can
still be seen on the hilltops near Auckland.
The
Maori tribes were sorting things out amongst themselves,
when who shows up but the Europeans. Two Dutch ships sailed
into Golden Bay at the top of the South Island in 1642.Local
Maori come out in their canoes to investigate, to which
the Dutch challenged them by blowing trumpets.When a boat
was lowered to take a party between the two ships, it was
attacked and four crewmen were killed. Tasman sailed away
and did not come back, but did leave a name: Nieuw Zeeland” or “New
Sealand”. The next contact between Europeans and Maoris
came in 1769when both English and French explorers arrived,
the English under James Cook and the French under Jean
de Surville. Exploration continued, motivated by science,
profit and a power struggle between English and French.Cook
made two more visits between 1773 and 1777, and there were
more French expeditions. By the 1790s, whaling ships and
sealing gangs made regular appearances. The first mission
station was founded in 1814 in the Bay of Islands. Though
there were several bloody clashes before 1840, given the
number of Europeans settling in New Zealand and the multiple
visits by ships, inter-racial conflict was modest. Europeans
needed Maori protection, food and labor, and Maoris came
to need European articles, especially muskets.
Whaling
stations and mission stations became linked to local Maori
groups by intermarriage, which also helped keep the peace.The
Treaty of Waitangi is seen as New Zealand’s founding
document, establishing the country as a nation. Leading
Maori chief sand representatives of the British Crown signed
the documents at Waitangi, in the Bay of Islands. The signing
of the treaty began on February 6, 1840, which has become
New Zealand’s national day,known
as “Waitangi Day”. Most indigenous people slowly
disappeared, or were greatly reduced in number and influence
when Europeans immigrated to their country
in large numbers.
There are just over four million resident
New Zealanders, of which 15% identify themselves as Moari.
A high birth rate indicates that proportion will grow in
the coming years. Wellington, at the extreme south end
of North Island is the New Zealand capital. Apart from
its importance as the capital,it’s a major travel
crossroads between the North and South Island,with the
Wellington-Christchurch car ferry route well-established.
There is an international airport in Wellington
(there are a total of seven in all of New Zealand). Another
great travel option in New Zealand is going by train, which
all about the journey, not necessarily the travel. The Overlander/Northerner
runs between Wellington and Auckland and is a stunning
way to go from one city to the other, enjoying the scenery
rather than worrying about the road.
Auckland,
though not the capital, is certainly the city people think
of when New Zealand is mentioned, and indeed, will be the
city you will most likely fly into for your holiday. Auckland
is worth exploring, whether you do it before or after your
charter.
Almost one third of all New Zealanders
live in Auckland. Situated on a narrow strip of land between
two harbors,Auckland is probably surrounded by more long
white sandy beaches and islands than any other city in the
world. Green parks abound within the city; to the west of
the city are vineyards, the Waitakere rainforest, waterfalls,
hiking trails and surf beaches. Auckland is so highly energized,
there is so much to do, that you might never want to sleep.
For those who shun sleep, there is a24-hour casino located
in the Sky Tower.
The Sky Tower is also the site of the Sky
Jump, a 630 foot, 16 second base wire jump from the observation
deck. Yes, you don’t
have to be nuts, but it would probably help. Speaking of Spiderman-type
activities, there is absorbingly jumping off the Auckland
Harbor Bridge, “Ground Rush”(rappelling down the
Mercure Hotel) and the “Sky Screamer”,which involves
being strapped into a seat and being hurled almost230 feet
into the air. Don’t forget to buy travel insurance!More
sedate activities to participate in include visiting the National
Maritime Museum, the Auckland Zoo (you WILL get to see a kiwi
that way!), and the Auckland Art Gallery. Housed in oldster
holding tanks, the Kelly Tariton Antarctic Encounter &Underwater
World should be on your “to do” list. You
travel on a conveyor belt through a transparent tunnel running
through the center of the aquarium, stepping off for a closer
look when the urge hits you.
The best part is the Antarctic
Encounter, which includes awake through a replica of Scott’s
1911 Antarctic hut, and a ride on a Snow Cat through a frozen
environment where a colony of King and Gentoo penguins live.
If you really need to feel the chill yourself, go visit the
Minus 5 Degree Bar, an extraordinary ice bar where every-thing
from the seats to your glass is made of ice. Pay $20, put
on special clothing and sip a REALLY cold martini. You can
only stay in this shimmering pub for a half hour. Lenin Bar
next door offers a good view of those freezing themselves.
Or, tour the Lion Breweries for an interactive “beer
experience”.
The Hauraki Gulf, just to the east of Auckland,
is dotted with a multitude of islands, making it a perfect
place for chartering. Many are close enough, that if you
wanted to return to Auckland and dock in the evening, it
would be quite feasible. Some of the larger islands are populated
and are excellent places to visit.
Waiheke Island is one
of the most popular, with a slower pace than Auckland; plus
many picturesque bays and lovely beaches. Did I mention there
are over 24vineyards to visit and taste their wines? Great
Barrier Island is further away, a rugged and scenic island
that is a world (and perhaps 50years) away from anything
you have experienced. You will find plenty of unspoiled beaches
(the west side), great surfing (east side), hot springs and
plenty of hiking paths, but no supermarket!
If rare birds
are what you are interested in, ask your captain to take
you to visit Tiritiri Matangi Island. It is home to a myriad
of endangered birds,including the colorful takahe, the rare
saddleback, kiwis and penguins. There are also 47 islands
in the Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park, loosely divided into two
categories: recreation and conservation. The recreation islands
are easily visited, and easily spotted, as their harbors
shelter yachts in the summer. Conservation islands have restricted
access, with special permits to visit some, and some are
totally restricted with no access at all. North of Hauraki
Gulf, the Bay of Islands beckons. But first,stop by Poor
Knight Islands, if there is anyone onboard who SCUBA dives. The area is part of a marine
reserve and is reputed to have the best diving in New Zealand;
Jacques Cousteau rated them as one of the world’s top
10 dive sites. The islands are bathed in a subtropical current
from the Coral Sea, so varieties of tropical and subtropical
fish not seen in other coastal waters are observed here.Gin-clear
waters, underwater cliffs dropping to a sandy bottom 120 feet
below, archways, caves, tunnels and fissures that attract
sponges and under-water vegetation.
Manta rays are frequently
seen. Diving
is also available(and excellent) in the Bay of Islands Maritime
and Historic Park. Long famed for its stunning scenery,the
Bay of Islands is one of New Zealand’s major attractions
and most popular chartering area. The bay features dozens
of coves and inlets surrounding the 150 islands. There is
virtually no development on the islands, the towns are all
on the mainland. The Bay of Islands was the site of New Zealand’s
first permanent English settlement, most likely one of the
first places the early Polynesian explorers populated also.
The real charm of the Bay of Islands is
the water. Whether you choose to kayak, dive, surf or simply
relax and drink in all of the beauty of the area, you could
stay for weeks and still not experience everything. However,
when you want to get off your charter yacht and stretch your
legs, a trip to the nearby Waitangi National Reserve is well
worth your time to explore. The Haruru Falls, accessible
via a walkway through the Waitangi National Reserve, are
lit up at night.If you think the pool at the bottom of the
Falls looks inviting, go ahead,jump in!
There are two other
excellent areas to explore by charter yacht, actually more,
but talk to your captain those secret spots of his. The other
two we will discuss here are the Marlborbough Sounds, located
between North and South Islands,and Fiord land, on the west
coast of South Island. Marlborough Sounds feature countless
bays, islands and coves, which were formed by the sea flooding
its deep valleys after the ice ages. Parts of the Sounds
are now included in the Marlborough Sounds Maritime Park,
which is actually many small reserves.
Picton is the small
port that often serves as a base to explore the Sounds. Just
south of Picton is the town of Blenheim, which is the best
place to access New Zealand’s
largest wine-growing district. There are more than 50 wineries
around Blenheim, where you can also visit breweries, liqueur
distilleries and cottage industries promoting homemade preserves
and olive oil. Fiord land National Park, New Zealand’s
largest and most stunning wilderness area is situated at the
southern most reaches of South Island. An expanse of towering
mountains, deep valleys and long narrow fiords carved by glaciers,
Fiord land has remain untouched by the human encroachment
affecting most wilderness areas.
Virgin podocarp and beech forests crown
the mountains and are inhabited by rare and exotic wildlife,
including: crested penguins, paradise and blue ducks, kiwis,
herons and the kakapo parrot. Traveling through the Fiords
by yacht is surely
the most dramatic and awe-inspiring way to view them, as well
as the most comfortable! Fiord land’s majesty and mystique
is certainly enough reason for visiting, and is only compounded
when the kayaking, diving and fishing opportunities are included.
Other must see, must do places in New Zealand:
Mt. Taranaki, located on the North Island. This snow-capped
dormant volcano looks so much like Japan’s Mt. Fuji,
that it was used as a stand in for it in The Last Samurai.
And while we are on the subject of volcanoes,Tongariro National
Park on the Central Plateau of the North Island, is home
to not one, but three active volcanoes. With such a wealth
of volcanic activity, it is little wonder that Tongariro
recently played the role of “Mordor” in the
Lord of the Rings trilogy. West of Tongariro National Park
is the Waitomo area, the name coming from wai(water) and
tomo(hole or shaft). The name is appropriate, as numerous
shafts throughout the countryside drop abruptly into underground
cave systems and streams.
There are more than 300mapped
caves in the area. The Waitomo Cave, known as the Glow worm
Cave, is just a big cave with the usual stalactites stalagmites,
until you board a boat and swing out into the underground
river. As your eyes grow accustomed to the dark, a veritable
Milky Way of little lights appear…these
are the glow-worms. They are also found in other caves, but
not in the sheer numbers as in this cave.For those who want
an adventure, there are numerous caving trips available,
which include rappelling down into caves, tubing along subterranean
rivers with waterfalls, squeezing through tight, narrow
passageways and traversing huge caverns.
Again, should I
remind you to make sure your travel insurance is paid up?New
Zealand has it all. When do you want to go? Where do you
want to start? What do you want to do? For heaven’s
sakes, don’t
just sit there; call your charter agent!
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