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Sometimes you just have to go to Italy.

If you have never been there before, you are in for a treat: the beauty, the history, the food, the color of the water, the architecture, the people; all combine to formulate one of the most entrancing places to visit on earth. If you have been already, but haven’t visited for awhile…what are you waiting for?

We will start our journey in historic Genoa, travel down the coast and end in Italy’s third largest city: Naples. You will probably want to arrive early to take advantage of the attractions available in Genoa. The airport convenient and is only a short ride from the port. If you plan to stay near the port, you will be handy to your yacht and within sauntering distance of many fabulous restaurants. Genoa has the second largest aquarium in the world, located at the port. Very handy and very inspiring if you prefer seeing marine life while you are dry, rather than diving!

Genoa is one of the oldest cities of art in Italy. During Genoa’s peak in the 16th century, the city attracted many artists, including Rubens, Caravaggio and Van Dyck. The famed architect Galeazzo Alessi designed many of the city’s splendid palazzo. One of the most important venues is the Piazza de Ferrari where the Opera and the Palace of the Doges are. If you have time, two other places to visit: the house where Christopher Columbus is believed to have been born, and the St. Lawrence Cathedral. In World War II the British fleet bombarded Genoa. One bomb fell into the cathedral of St. Lawrence without exploding. It is now available for viewing in the Cathedral’s crypt/museum.

Or, skip the historical sights you are supposed to visit, and simply wander the streets near the port. Ancient building abound, as do tiny restaurants and plenty of boutiques for the shoppers of the group. Now, having taken time to enjoy Genoa, it is time to return to the Porto Antico and board your charter yacht for your holiday.

Portofino is just a short cruise down the coast from Genoa. A perfect way to ease into a charter, just long enough to settle in to enjoy the scenery on the attentions of the crew. Soon your captain has anchored and the tender launched to take you into this lovely village.

Portofino’s name was derived from the Roman Portus Delphini, and had a sanctuary on its isthmus. This is now the site of the church of St. George. Damaged during WWII, it has been rebuilt and still houses the relics of the defrocked St. George. On up the pathway is the Brown Castle, immersed in magnificent gardens. It was originally built in the 1500s as a defense against the Turks; because of its strategic location, it affords fabulous views of the harbor. If you continue on, you will eventually reach the Faro, the old lighthouse and be able to see the Gulf of Tigullion through the pine forest.

If there are SCUBA divers in the group, the nearby reef is a natural paradise. This is the heart of the Protected Marine Area of Portofino, and features underwater cliffs and Posidionia beds. Red coral has found ideal conditions to develop here, and is abundant. The wreckage of the Mohawk Deer and the Genova are also available to dive. In the nearby Bay of San Fruttoso, a bronze statue of Cristo degli Abissi makes the bay a destination for divers from all over the world.

Once everyone has done their athletic workouts, whether hiking, diving or shopping in Portofino’s boutiques, the best activity is to claim a table at one of the portside bars, order a libation…and people watch!

The village of Santa Margherita is just a short hop away. It is a lovely town with a beautiful harbor, though not as spectacular as Portofino, but friendly and lively. The town had already developed by the Middle Ages, but only began to thrive in the 17th century, when the Genoese nobility started to build gracious villas here. One of the main attractions is the Basilica of Santa Margherita, a rococo extravaganza with Italian and Flemish art. Just outside of town is the Abbazia della Cervara, where King Francis I was imprisoned after the Battle of Pavia. Also worth a visit: the Villa Durazzo Centurion, built at the end of the 16th century and surrounded by spectacular Italian gardens. If you are in the mood for sand, ask your captain to take you to the Bay of Paraggi, which has the only sandy beach in the area. There is also a spectacular variety of sea fauna and a wreck dating back to 1917 for the snorkelers.

A leisurely cruise down the coast takes us to Cinque Terre, “the five lands”, which is one of the world’s hidden treasures. Perched wherever the cliffs and hills permitted enough space to build, surrounded by steep slopes corrugated by hundreds of terraces laboriously carved out of the earth and rock, the Cinque Terre towns are visually stunning. No cars are permitted, you can hike between the towns, or take the tram. The trails and this entire area have been made into a National Park to ensure they will retain their character as old world villages. It is also intended to protect the land surrounding the villages, specifically the miles of dry stone walls built by hand hundreds of years ago. Because of the mild climate, the vineyards that grace the terraces of the region produce the region’s finest and most potent wines. The ones labeled Sciacchetra are made from raisins and can be either sweet or dry.

Monterosso is the most northern of the five villages. It is also the most “touristy”, and boasts “free and organized” beaches. The next town, Vernazza, is about an hour-and-a-half ’s walk. Vernazza was founded by Romans on a rocky spit, which is a striking vision from the footpath above. Its parish church, Santa Margherita of Anticoh, was built in 1318. The hourand- a-half walk from Vernazza to Corniglia is the most strenuous, as Corniglia (unlike the other towns) is high up on the cliffs and not on the sea. From Corniglia, another hour’s walk through splendid scenery leads to Manarola, a colorful fishing village built up and down steep lanes, all piled upon a great black rock. A walk of a mere 20 minutes will bring you to Riomaggiore by the most popular section of the footpath, the “Via dell’Amore” is carved into the cliff face above the sea. Now, if you walk the whole way, you will surely want to return on the tram. The best part about walking the entire length? Knowing you can eat anything you want to at dinner tonight and still lose weight. They call it the “Mediterranean Diet”!

Tonight while you sleep, the captain and crew will move your charter yacht on down the coast and you will awake at the dock of Porto Turistico in Rome. Rome was not built in a day, and you certainly won’t be able to see everything in a day, a week or even a month. There are legions of headless statues, acres of paintings, over 900 churches, gardens overflowing with every type of vegetation imaginable, museums, restaurants, and of course shops overflowing with every major designer well represented.

According to legend, Rome was founded by the twins Romulus and Remus on April 21, 753 BC. Of course, Romulus soon murdered Remus so he could be king, which set the precedence for the bloody millennium of Rome’s history to come. The city was the cradle of Roman civilization, reaching its zenith in 117 AD. Artistic and religious accomplishments not withstanding, early Rome was only slightly more than a glorified pirates’ camp. Early inhabitants, finding themselves short of women, simply stole them from the Sabines. The Romans were not especially interested in farming or learning a trade, so they adopted the hobby of subjugating their neighbors and soon polished it to a fine art.

Rome, by 270 BC, had eliminated all its rivals to become master of Italy. In the following 200 years, Roman rule would be established from Spain to Egypt. Rome gained almost the entire western Mediterranean, Greece, North Africa and Asia Minor were absorbed in small bites over the next 100 years, which makes Rome’s history the history of the western world.

The traffic-crazed, thoroughly awful Piazza Venezia is a poor introduction to Rome, but it makes sense to start a tour of the city there, as it features the ruins of old Rome on one side and the boutiques and bureaucracies of the new city on the other. Next, perhaps you will want to stop at the Musei Capitolini, designed by Michelangelo. The centerpiece is the Palazzo Senatorio (Rome’s city hall), built over the ruins of the Roman tabularium (the state archive). Together with the Palazzo dei Conservatori and the Palazzo Nuovo, the three make up the Capitoline Museums. Founded in 1734, this is the oldest museum in the world and displays both the heights and the depths of ancient society and culture. There are rooms full of bronzes, statues, porcelains. Had enough culture for one trip? Can you endure just one more place? Yes? Then, it’s off to the Colosseum!

The Coliseum was the largest amphitheater ever built in the Roman Empire. Its real name was the Flavian Amphitheatre, after the family of emperors who built it, beginning in 72 AD. Coliseum refers to the Colossus, a huge gilded statue of Nero (erected by himself, of course) that stood in the square in front. Originally capable of seating 50,000 spectators, it was used for gladiatorial combat. The only problem is: you can sit there until it is time for your yacht to leave and, chances are, you still won’t see Russell Crowe!

You might want to enjoy the restaurants and clubs in Rome, after all; “when in Rome”… After you return to the yacht and are safely tucked into your bed, the captain and crew will move your yacht down to Ischia, in the Bay of Naples. Larger than its more famous sister, Capri, Ischia is green, mountainous and volcanic. Ischia is part of the enormous submerged volcano of Campano, and boasts something Capri does not have: beautiful beaches. On one, Maronti, the island’s volcanic origins are very much in evidence: hot mineral springs gush all year round. Like all wonderful things these days, they come with a warning label: many of the springs are radioactive and a doctor’s permission is often required before you take a soak. Just think, you can take a nice relaxing hot springs bath and come out glowing enough never to have to use a light bulb again. Just kidding! But the part about the doctor’s slip was true. The hottest spring on the island is Terme Rita, at Casamicciola, spewing forth at a toasty 180 degree F. Whew!

The next day after a leisurely breakfast, your captain will cruise your yacht on over to the Isle of Capri. Unlike Ischia, Capri is not volcanic. During a geological cataclysm, Capri broke off from the Sorrentine peninsula, a blow that chatters its coasts to form the island’s famous cliffs. Enchanting, Capri is a beautiful Garden of Eden with over 800 species of flowers and plants carpeting a sheer hunk of limestone, much of which has eroded into fantastic forms. One of the most beautiful is the Grotta Azzurra, with its shimmering, iridescent blueness caused by the reflection of the light on the water. Since they all seem to be named for colors, you can also visit Grotta Bianca and Grotta Verde (the White Cave and the Green Cave), just to round out your palette of colors!

Your captain might anchor your yacht near the Faraglioni, three towering limestone pinnacles in the sea. You might want to spend some time playing with the watersport toys you are sure to have onboard. Afterwards, a take a stroll through the flower-bedecked Capri town, a charming village packed with jewelry shops and designer boutiques. The town is the base for several walks, one of the best is to Tragara Terrace, with views over looking the monolithic Pizzolungo and the Arco Naturale, where dark pines cling to every tiny ledge. Or head for La Certosa, a charming golden-hued 14th century Cathusian charterhouse, topped with a 17th century Baroque tower. A few minutes away are the Gardens of Augustus, founded by Caesar himself.

Next stop: Positano, Italy’s most nearly vertical town. Between Capri and Positano lie the three small islets of Le Galli. Legend has it that these islands were home to the Sirens, who lured sailors to them with their beauty and their singing, only to wreck their ships on the rocks. Indeed, wrecks from the Roman Empire and later abound. Perhaps you will stop long enough for a quick swim in the mesmerizing deep blue water.

John Steinbeck wrote an essay for Harper’s Bazaar in May of 1953, saying: “Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone”. With editorial comments like that, Positano went from a relatively poor fishing village to attracting the large numbers of tourists that visit today. Even though tourism is the major industry in Positano, it will never be spoiled by tourism, simply because all the engineers in Italy can’t widen the Amalfi road, and the terrain leaves no room at all for new development.

Positano nestles into the steep hillside and stretches skyward in a collage of multi-colored Moorish-style houses, villas and hotels, perched on top of and overhanging each other. The facades are shades of pinks, ochre and mustard with protruding balconies draped in bougainvillea and geraniums. Winding its way through this colorful chaos is a steep one-way road, which serves as the town’s lifeline. It worms its way from the top road hundreds of feet above sea level down to the central piazza and beach. It’s the only access for cars; the local bus route; the pedestrian walkway (no footpaths here); restaurants edge their tables onto it, people stand and talk in the middle of it, shops display their wares along it, and, typically Italian, cars and motorcycles manage to park at varying angles along it. Bisecting it at numerous intervals is a web of craggy steps and steep cobbled alleyways, all lending to the charm that is Positano. After visiting this enchanting village, you will be agreeing with John Steinbeck, as Positano will beckon you back.

Between Positano and Praiano (which lies 7 kilometers to the south) is a little cay named Laurito. On the beach is a small and very simple restaurant, Adolfo, where you can eat grilled anchovies, fresh cheese (fiordilatte) grilled on lemon leaves and mussels. The owner’s name is Sergio, and, having had an Australian mother, speaks fluent English. A visit here will bring you just about as close to heaven as is possible on earth.

The final destination is Naples. You will either love Naples or hate it, or both, but one thing is for certain: you won’t leave without an infusion of Italian passion. Perhaps the worst thing about Naples is the traffic. In central Naples, a million rude drivers chase each other around a street plan that hasn’t changed much since Roman times. You do need to be very careful and very quick to cross the streets, as the drivers seem to totally disregard stop lights and appear to be aiming their cars directly at you.

On the other hand, it is said that the only thing subtle about Naples is its charm, and the city may win your heart at the same time as it deranges your senses! As you explore Naples, it soon becomes apparent that the Napoletani are extremely passionate people, they seem to truly realize they are alive and enjoy life as best they can. They don’t stand in lines or obey traffic signals, they will whisper alarming propositions in your ear, give you sweets, offer surprising kindnesses, bend the rules for you or invent new ones. Everything is done with a flourish, it seems that the citizens of Naples are the epitome of the Italian’s Italian.

Since you have arrived at the port, the most reasonable place to start your tour is the Castel Nuovo, a beautiful castle that looms over the harbor, built about 700 years ago. The castle houses parts of the Naples city administration and if you come during office hours, someone will probably show you the Sala dei Baroni, where the city council meets, it has a cupola with unusual Moorish vaulting and an eight-pointed star made of interlocking arches. There are also two museums here.

Feeling brave? You might want to take a walk up the Spaccanapoli, a street that actually means “Split Naples”, and that is exactly what it has done for the past 2,600 years. This street is the heart of old Naples, lined with grocery barrows and bookstores, shops that sell old violins, plaster saints, pizza and used clothes pegs. While you are wandering, make sure you peer down any of the long alleys. Between the tall tenements you will see as many as a hundred clothes-lines full of laundry, bravely waiting for a breeze and hoping for a glint of sun.

No journey to Naples would be complete without a visit to Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii. Despite its fearsome reputation, and its formidable appearance looming over Naples, Mount Vesuvius is a midget as far as volcanoes go, only 4,202 ft. tall. In fact, no one even suspected it was a volcano until it surprised the people of Pompeii on August 24, 79 AD. You can actually go up to the crater of Mt. Vesuvius by taking the Vesuvius bus from the Circumvesuviana stop in Ercolano, followed by a tough trudge up an ash path. Or give it a miss and go straight to Pompeii. If you really need to see a volcano, visit Solfatara to the west of Naples. It’s easier to get to and has sulfur gas vents, bubbling mud pits and whistling superheated steam fumaroles decorating its eerie landscape.

To see and experience an entire ancient city come to life, the only place on earth you can see this kind of magical time capsule is here in Pompeii, thanks to the good graces of Mount Vesuvius. Vesuvius’ rumblings and a tall, ugly cloud that formed above it gave the people with good sense a chance to leave. Only about 10 percent of the population stayed behind to perish. Pompeii is no mere ruin; you can walk down the old Roman high street, peek into the shops, see the graffiti on the walls, then wander off down the back streets to explore the homes of inhabitants.

For those of you who desire something more off the beaten track of the usual tourist sights, how about a trip below the city? You can visit the old Greco-Roman reservoirs dug out of the soft tufo stone. Subterranean Naples also includes large catacombs. The system of tunnels and cisterns cover most of the city and lie approximately 100 feet below ground level. During WW II, these tunnels were used for air raid shelters and there are inscriptions on the walls which continue to tell of the suffering during that time.

It’s now time to head for the airport. You have had the chance to scratch the surface of Italy and perhaps have gained more of an appreciation of why Italians are so passionate about their country. You have seen the quaintness of the coastal villages of Portofino, Cinque Terre and Positano, explored the islands of Capri and Ischia and fell in love with Rome and Naples. They combine to form one of the most entrancing places to visit on earth…Italy. Aren’t you glad you came, and aren’t you anxious to come again and continue your journey?

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