Discovering the Cradle of Civilization
Greece. Cradle of Civilization. Everyone’s birthplace. A place that, once you have been there, will call you to come back, to come home to her, time and time again.
The adventure begins in Poros, a small island located an hour from Athens via fast ferry. Once aboard our charter yacht, my friends and I assembled at the large table on the yacht’s foredeck to discuss plans for our charter.

We decided that our trip should include Poros, then up the coast a bit to Epidaurus, then down around the end of Peloponnese to Spetses, then Porto Helio, on up to Nafplion, across and down to Monemvassio, back over to Hydra and finally on back to Pireaus. A bit ambitious, could we do it?

Poros is an enchanting little island, a wonderful place to start a holiday. Enchanting tavernas, a bustling marketplace, fun little shops selling everything from tacky souvenirs to leather sandals, winding narrow streets bordered by white-washed houses with vibrantly colored flowers cascading out of clay pots, tiny churches with cool, serene interiors that seemed to welcome our curiosity. Add to that, an archeological museum, Temple of Poseidon, Villa Galini and 15 beaches and it all adds up to a very nice place to visit. Did I mention that the people are very friendly?
A word to the wise… when you purchase something, ask for a better price. You will usually get it, and the Greeks love to bargain.

I know it is strange for Americans, but it is all part of the fun and part of the experience. Plus, my new leather sandals now have a great story to go with them, besides being pretty. I admit it was I who insisted we visit Epidaurus. According to Greek mythology, Epidaurus was the birthplace of Asciepius, the god of healing and the son of Apollo. Built during the 3rd and 4th century BC, the area was both a healing center and a religious site. Now, how they decided to include a 14,000 seat amphitheatre is one of the many intriguing questions. It is almost perfectly preserved, because for years the entire area was covered and excavations started in 1881, but not fully undertaken until 1953-1964.

Everything is so perfectly preserved it is nothing short of a miracle. It would seem that the sound engineers from today should be studying it a bit more closely than they apparently are, because even on the highest of the 55 tiers, you can hear a conversation on the stage. They figured out how to do this 2,500 years ago, and it is still acoustical perfection yet today. To me, the amphitheatre and its amazing engineering was the highlight of the journey. There is an annual festival there, held in July and August with theatrical performances of the great ancient Greek dramas. It must be spectacular.

The amphitheatre was magnificent, but one of the other very well preserved structures, the bee-hive shaped “tholos,” were a bit scary, for me. The tholos once contained a snake-ridden labyrinth through which the mentally ill were forced to crawl in the darkness. It seems the idea was to shock them back into good health. Hmmm, I greatly dislike snakes and if forced to have crawl through someplace filled with snakes in the dark, I probably would come out needing therapy for years to come. I should have just stuck to the amphitheatre.

It was a rather long sail down the coast of Peloponnese and around the tip to Spetses, and we arrived just as darkness was closing in. The lights of the town, reflecting off the white buildings made it appear like a fairy-village, lit from within. It glowed against the sea in the foreground and the darkness of the hills behind it. Enchanting, simply enchanting. The crew soon had us docked and we jumped off to do a bit of exploring, meeting up at a seaside taverna later on. “Sea taxis” zoom in and out of the port, transport their customers to other port towns around Spetses, and back and forth to nearby Hydra and Porto Heli. These taxis, along with horse-drawn carriages are supposedly the only means of transport on the island, since cars are banned.

However, and this is a big however, we did have to leap out of the way of lorries as they careened by (I guess they aren’t considered cars), and worse yet, the motorbikes buzzing like crazed bumblebees. The most notable feature of Spetses is the pebble artistry that graces most every street, courtyard and pathway. The pebbles, white and dark green, are laid to form different patterns: dolphins, fish, and shells.

The following morning we were up early for the quick run over to Porto Heli, a big summer resort on a protected bay. The area was sheltered from the wind and resulting waves, perfect for a “base of operations” for the day. We took the tender and explored the multitude of coves and inlets that pocket the coast, each more enchanting than the last. We visited in early May, too early for the summer sailors, and most of the bays were deserted except for swooping birds calling warnings to each other. Lunch was nothing short of spectacular, as we docked at Hinitsa, a tiny taverna just around from the entrance to Porto Heli. Heaven on earth. Luncheon is often eaten “appetizer-style” with many plates of tidbits to choose from, and so it was this day.

Each bite better than the one before. The worst thing was going back to the yacht, knowing we still had to eat dinner, since the chef had not been appraised of our extremely late lunch and had already fixed a fabulous supper!

The next morning I arose early and had the foredeck to myself, listening to the sounds of the small waves lapping against the side of the boat and watching as tiny fishing boats returned to the harbor, their engines merrily putt-putting and the vessels wreathed by a halo of seagulls, soaring and diving to the rythmn of the Greek music, turned up loud, so the fisherman could hear it over the sound of the engines. Often, the fisherman’s fenders are already hanging over the side of the boat in preparation for docking. One has to smile as you watch them bounce along, skimming the water below, ever so much resembling toes that are merrily wiggling, dancing in time to the fisherman’s tunes.

We made our way up the coast that day to Nauplia (also called Nafphlio, depending on who is spelling it). A lovely town with shady, inviting streets laying at the foot of an enormous hill on the top of which stands a vast Venetian fort. Palamidi, the fortress is elaborately built, in many layers, resembling a wedding cake. The main approach to Palamidi was originally a covered track direct from the port, arched and loopholed for defense, which gave way in its upper reaches to a winding and precipitous stairway up the face of the rock. It is still there and climbed by hardy visitors such as we were. Legend has it that there are 999 steps, but don’t believe all the legends. There are only 857!

The other venue of interest in Nauplia is the Castle of Bourzi, which is really just a fortified islet, but fun to visit. A chain was lead from the castle to the bulwark opposite to it in order to prevent enemy ships from entering the harbor. We finished our inspections of the town and headed onto Leonido, which is south and on the peninsula finger that is opposite from where we had been. A classic Greek town, whitewashed with huge cypress trees and friendly locals. Some of the best beaches in the Peloponnese are located nearby, but we were only here for overnight, heading to Monemvasia the next morning.

Monemvasia consists of three parts: the old or lower town of Kastro, the upper town or citadel and the port. Obviously, we started at the port and headed over to Kastro, which lies within stone ramparts on the Rock of Monemvasia. To reach it, you walk across a short causeway from the mainland to the entrance portal in the wall, then a few steps through the tunnel and into a sunny town of tiled-roof houses, shops and cafes, pretty squares and tiny churches. And quiet…because no cars are allowed. After stuffing yourself at one (or more) of the tavernas, a visit to the ruined citadel up the hill is a great way to work off all those calories!

Monemvasia dates back to the 6th Century, when the inhabitants of ancient Laconia settled on a rock that had been split from the mainland by an earthquake in 375 AD. Over time, Monemvasia developed into a major Byznatine trading port. It then became something of a ping-pong ball, bouncing back and forth between the Venetians and Turks until in 1821 it was liberated during the Greek War of Independence and the Turkish occupiers were massacred.

A lovely area, rather like a miniature Rock of Gibraltar, and we all agreed that we could have spent more time here, but time was sliding away and we still wanted visit Hydra. No cars, no motorbikes zooming past, just beauty and quiet and viewed from Kodylenia’s Taverna in Kamini, the most spectacular sunsets quite possibly in the world.

Not to be missed on Hydra: Pantelis. No, not a taverna, not a historical site. Pantelis is the self-appointed dockmaster who helps the yachts dock at the port of Hydra. Looking like one of the gnomes you might purchase at a garden store, with a long beard and flowing locks and, yes, a rather round shape supported by bandy legs, he has sparkling eyes and an infectious laugh. His English is perfect, as he spends much of the winter in Tarpon Springs, Florida.

Too soon, our stay draws to a close and Pantelis throws our docklines to us as we ease away from the quay, headed back to Pireaus. Another wonderful holiday draws to a close, leaving beautiful memories to savor. I have just one more thing to say to Greece: efharisto poli… from the depths of my heart, thank you very much.

back to top