Dominica | View a sample itinerary for this location

Dominica is the premier non-tourist destination in the Caribbean for the savvy adventurer. Pronounced "Dom-in-EEK-a", this enchanting island is located between the French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique. The rugged green mountains that Captain Jack Sparrow and his rescuers scrambled through…Dominica. The water that Will Turner and the crew leapt into? Ti Tou Gorge, which is actually a swim to the base of a waterfall through a series of natural "rooms and ponds" formed by high cliff walls canopied by trees. A hot spring tumbles down just outside the entrance of the gorge, a perfect place to soak after the cool waters of the falls.

If you ever wondered what Costa Rica was like before all the cruise ships and tourists had discovered it, this is your chance to explore a pristine eco-friendly island that is unsullied by package tour hordes. Dominica is aptly known as "The Nature Island of the Caribbean". Famous for its tropical rainforest, it is also blessed with many rivers and waterfalls which result from the high rainfall amounts ("liquid sunshine" according to the locals). The island boasts over 60% natural vegetation, 172 types of birds, more than a thousand flowering plants and the adorable agouti. The water surrounding the island is also magnificent. Scuba Diving's 2006 annual report of the best dive destinations in the world has given Dominica top honors in several categories: Top Dive Destinations (#3), Top Wall Diving (#5), Top Small Animals (#1), Top Marine Life (#1) Healthiest Marine Environment (#1), Top Snorkeling (#5). Added to the Scuba honors, is its distinction as the Whale Watching Capital of the Caribbean.

Much of the reason Dominica has remained so virgin is due to the fact that it was the last Caribbean island to be colonized. The Caribs settled here in the 14th century, naming it Waitikubuli, which means "tall is her body". Christopher Columbus, with much less lyrical flair, named her after the day of the week he first spotted the island – Sunday, November 3, 1493. Lyrical flair not withstanding, let's face it, even fewer people would want to visit if they had to try and pronounce Waitikubuli. Dominica is the only country where Carib Indians still remain. The Caribs had a grisly reputation for conquest and cannibalism. An early history stated that "the Caribs have tasted of all the nations that frequented them, and affirm that the French are the most delicate, and the Spanish the hardest of digestion." Three thousand Caribs live on Dominica today, mostly within the 3,700 acre Carib Territory on the island's eastern side.

The Caribs are much more amiable today, more interested in selling their intricate basketry than munching on possible customers. Approaching Dominica from the south, leaving Martinique behind, you encounter lovely Soufriere Bay. The villages of Soufriere and Scott's Head are both located here. Scott's Head is at the end of a short isthmus, with a brilliant view of the bay. The ruins of Fort Cachacou are nearby. The fort has a defense post and involved in action between the British and the French in 1778 and 1805. Soufriere is, as the name implies, home to numerous sulfur springs. High above Soufriere Bay lies the location for the Cannibal Village scene in Pirates of the Caribbean. Below the waters of the bay are several of the best dive sites of Dominica. The underwater terrain of Dominica is so diverse that there are dive sites for all skill levels, plus plenty of great snorkeling. Continuing on north up the coast, you arrive at the administrative and commercial heart of Dominica. Roseau (pronounced "Rose-oh") is the capital, with a population of about 20,000.

The village is quite lovely with jalousies and gingerbread adorning the homes. There are several places to visit. Housed in the old Post Office, the Roseau Museum is small but well organized. Behind it is the Old Market, where once slaves were bought and sold, and today is a craft market. The New Market is open every day, but pulses with extra energy on Saturdays with a stunning variety of flowers, tropical fruits and vegetables. Ready to stretch your legs? Hire a guide and head for Boiling Lake, the 2nd largest boiling lake in the world. It is 8 miles from where you start your hike. Be warned, wear old clothes and old shoes when hiking in Dominica, as the high rainfall makes the ground anything but firm. Muddy, slippery are words that describe your footing. But for the adventurous, for the people who want to discover a world that few have seen, there are eleven mountains of challenges. After a long hike, plunge into one of the many rivers to wash off and cool off, followed by quaffing an icy beer with your fellow trampers. You are now hooked on Dominica. Your charter captain might suggest anchoring off the Layau River, and taking the tender up the river to explore.

The Layau River is about midway between Roseau and the 2nd largest town on Dominica, Portsmouth. Even more scenic than Roseau, Portsmouth is home to 5,000 people. About 1,000 of these are students and staff of Ross University School of Medicine, an offshore medical school. If time allows, at the start or end of your charter, take some time to really explore and enjoy Dominica.

Rent a jeep and travel the island, stopping at one of the many roadside eateries. You just might see a large glass bottle (or several) sitting on a shelf. What can be in it? When I asked, there was much chuckling and elbowing going on among the men as the bartender did his best to explain the potion. The most important ingredient is the bark of the boise bonde, a non-descript local hardwood tree.

Then cinnamon, vanilla, cashews, peanuts, ginseng…and lots of rum is added. It is shaken, and left to steep for a day or so before it is ready to drink. Sold under various names, it is thought to be a kind of Viagra of the Forest. I'm sure there are variations to the recipe, and I am sure the FDA wouldn't approve, but the gentlemen there all were quick to attest to its effectiveness! Do yourself a favor and hire a guide. Let him show you secret places that many of the residents might not even know about. Splash in one of the many waterfalls.

Visit the Carib Territory and step back in time. Stay at an ecolodge; one of the best is River Rush Retreat. It features open air bungalows standing beside a river tumbling over enormous boulders; creating background music punctuated with the calling of birds and the singing of the tree frogs. Heaven on earth. Dominica is the green jewel of the Caribbean, a precious emerald. Visit her before the rest of the world awakes to her beauty.