Croatia | View a sample itinerary for this location

I’ve heard Croatia described many ways: “Looks like Greece, tastes like Italy”, “the Med the way it was twenty years ago”, “Dubrovnik: the Pearl of the Adriatic”. It’s all true. I, personally, would like to keep the whole Croatian Coast under a veil of secrecy. To preserve the beauty, the clarity of the water, the charm of the walled cities from the crush of tourists that are arriving in greater numbers every year. I’m already too late. Every time someone visits Croatia, they return home and tell everyone who will listen about the marvelous place they just visited.

Flying into the Dubrovnik airport, the terrain below does indeed look like Greece. The land looked dry with patches of scrub on the hillsides as they stretched down to the azure blue of the Adriatic. I was joining Sea Dream II for a cruise up the coast, but arrived a few days early to enjoy the delights of Dubrovnik. The main entrance to the Old City of Dubrovnik is the Pile Gate, built from the 14th to the 16th centuries. As you enter the village, two things will battle for your attention: the full sweep of the Stradun, the main street that is paved in marble. Polished by countless feet, it shimmers as though it is wet. Immediately to your right is the large Onofrio Fountain, built in 1438. The water continually flowing from its many spouts is delicious. People fill their water bottles, splash their faces and rejoice in the glory of cool, sweet water.

During the heat of the day, the Stradun is filled with tourists, most of which seem to be licking ice cream cones as the sun shimmers off the street and buildings. Step off the main street and into the shaded side streets to escape the sun and discover the many shops and restaurants that line these narrow alleyways. Not just shops for tourists, but proper shops that cater to the residents that live in Old Town. In the hustle and bustle of the Stradun, it is easy to forget that Old Town Dubrovnik is not just about tourists. People really live here. They use the green market for their fruits and vegetables, they buy their meat at the butcher shop, their bread from the bakery. The laundry that dresses the narrow streets is not hung between the buildings for tourist’s photos, but to air dry in the breeze. We visitors should be honored to share and enjoy their village, their home. It is because of these strong people that Dubrovnik has survived and is as beautiful as she is. One of the most poignant memorials in this walled city is the one for the Defenders of Dubrovnik. The courtyard of the Gothic-Renaissance Sponza Palace is strung with fine wires and long-stemmed white roses hang from these wires, one for each of the brave men that died defending Dubrovnik in 1991 from the Serbs. An adjacent room holds their pictures and images of the war-torn area. Dubrovnik is filled with marvelous places to visit, the best thing to do is to grab a guide book and decide what suits you best. One of the things that should not escape your MUST DO list is to walk the walls that circle the city. The ticket you purchase is good for all day, which is wonderful, as the city looks different as the light of the day changes, and falls into evening.

There are many places to visit while you are in Dubrovnik, and there are just as many places to sit back, relax, and watch the world go by. Restaurants and cafes line the Stradun and the narrow streets. Walk up the steps to the next level, and you will find the restaurants almost take over the narrow alley. I am sure there is a correct name to the street, but I always just thought of it as “restaurant row”. If you like seafood, you will love it in Dubrovnik. I tried seafood salad at several places and was never disappointed. The memory mussels that were served to me down by the old wharf area still make my mouth water. Yum! There are two hole-in-the-wall bars that are fun, and a challenge to discover. Walk past the Rector’s Palace, past the Cathedral and up the stairs to the highest street you can find on that side. One of the pubs is marked with a “Cold Drinks” sign over the door. The other is not marked at all, and it is the larger, more interesting of the two. You will come to the unmarked one first, and it is literally just a door in the wall that surrounds the city. Enter through the wall and you pop out the other side to an enchanting seaside hideaway. The tables are placed on the boulders and the servers are hopping all over the place, balancing their trays. During the day, sunbathers plunk their towels down on every available surface and soak up the sun. When they get too hot, they leap off into the sea, clambering back up onto the rocks with the help of a rope. Strings of twinkling white rope lights mark the paths for you at night. Well worth the effort of discovery! Find it if you can!

Alfred Hitchcock just might have had his inspiration for “The Birds” from sitting in the marketplace in the Old Town. During the day, pigeons abound. As noontime approaches, more and more pigeons converge overhead, darkening the sky, their numbers are so great. As you sit (hopefully, under an umbrella!) wondering why on earth this display is happening, the reason becomes evident. The church bells chime twelve, and an old gentleman appears with a pail of corn. As he slings the contents across the cobblestones, the pigeons dive bomb down around him, and a feeding frenzy ensues. Heaven help the unsuspecting tourist ambling across the square at that moment!

Pigeons rule the skies and the streets during the day, disappearing in the evening as the swallows arrive in equal numbers. Much quicker and more vocal than the pigeons, the swallows put on such a frantic aerial display that people stop in their tracks to watch them. Pigeons by day, swallows in the evening. It is almost as though a hypothetical Bird Labor Union has dictated Avian Work Hours: pigeons have the 9 to 5 shift, swallows work 5 to midnight!

Dubrovnik is such a fabulous city, you will want to spend a couple days before or after your charter to enjoy it.

There are many small islands close to Dubrovnik which are terrific for checking out from the deck of your charter boat. Lokrum is a green gem just minutes away from the Old Harbor of Dubrovnik. The island is a Nature Reserve and is covered in pine and eucalyptus trees and dotted with rocky beaches. There is a botanical garden there with most of the plants identified. There is also an 11th century Benedictine monastery (closed by the French 200 years ago) and an old fort. The sound of the cicadas will fill your ears as you wander the trails. After the shimmering heat and the crowds of Old Town Dubrovnik, Lokrum is a cool retreat.

Also close by is the 14- island Elaphite Archipelago. Three of the most popular (and barely inhabited) islands are Kolocep, Lopud and Sipan. Kolocep is the nearest, has a couple of small settlements, but its main claim to fame are the many secluded pebble beaches that mark the coast line. The most developed is Lopud. There are many medieval churches, some interesting ruins and a couple of lovely sandy beaches. Since most of the beaches in Croatia are rocky or pebbly at the very least, sandy beaches are highly sought after! Sipan is the largest island in the Elaphite Archipelago. There are two settlements on the island, connected by a road that cuts through the fertile olive groves.

Dubrovnik was incredible, the surrounding islands and villages are enchanting, but I was there to go on Sea Dream II, and the time had finally arrived for me to jump in a taxi and head over to the city docks. She was waiting for me, her navy hull sparkling in the Croatian sun. I got out of my taxi and was immediately welcomed by several crew members…one taking my luggage, another leading me over to the sign-in table where I was handed a leather wallet with my room key. I climbed the gangway and was greeted by a steward who pumped a bit of hand gel onto my palm, followed by a chilly cloth, truly appreciated in the hot weather. I was handed off to be greeted by the captain and then to a stewardess who showed me to my room. My bags had already made their appearance, as had a lovely fruit arrangement and a bottle of champagne. Yes! I knew this was going to be fantastic!

Now, let me admit something. I am a bit of a snob. I don’t do cruise lines. From what I understand, there is a reason they are called cruise lines…because you are always standing in a line for something. Many of them now carry more passengers than the people that lived in the village that I grew up in. I don’t want to be with a lot of people, I want to be pampered. I’m in the charter industry, and demand a high level of professionalism from the crew, I expect fabulous food, and am extremely picky about how clean a vessel is and how well kept up it is. Sea Dream passed my tests with flying colors. Sea Dream Yacht Club has two identical ships: Sea Dream I and Sea Dream II. You can charter the whole yacht if you wish. Or you can take individual staterooms and join them for one of their cruises. Do you have a large group, like a certain itinerary and don’t need the whole vessel? Work with your charter agent to have your group together on a single deck.

I had never cruised on Sea Dream before. While I was excited, I admit I was skeptical, too. I have had the opportunity to travel on an extensive number of charter yachts of all shapes and sizes. How would Sea Dream stack up against a 152’ Feadship with a maximum guest capacity of 12? The answer: extremely well. Astonishingly so. One thing I look at when considering the level of service a vessel has to offer is the guest to crew ratio. The fewer guests per crew, the more attention you will receive. Sea Dream has 95 crew to serve 110 guests, which is on par with the best charter yachts in the world. Now, having experienced Sea Dream Yacht Club for myself, I will say it is as close to being on a private charter yacht as you can possibly be without being on one. It was fabulous.

There was a myriad of public places on the yacht. You could make up your mind whether you wanted to have a convivial conversation with another traveler, or simply sink deeper into the novel you brought along. The library was a favorite retreat of many, including myself. The spa was nothing short of decadent. Yes, there was a well out-fitted gym which many people availed themselves of.

Food is a big part of any charter. I was not disappointed. In fact, I was overwhelmed. There was always something available. Breakfast, lunch and dinner were available for hours, so you never felt rushed. Breakfast and lunch featured buffets, plus a menu to order from. If you wanted something different that was not on the menu or on the buffet, no problem, if they could possibly make what you desired, they would. I often ordered eggs Benedict with caviar for breakfast. It wasn’t on the menu. The answer when I ordered was always the same: “no problem”. Dinner was a triumph with various choices ranging from “chef ’s special” (always great), to vegetarian, to oriental and beyond. Just leave room for dessert.

If possible, the swim platform was lowered and swim time was alternated with toy time. There were several jet skis available for those who wanted to play on them, and on at least one occasion I watched a crew member in one of the launches tow around a big yellow inflatable banana topped with laughing guests. For the swimmers, there was a big floating trampoline to leap from and plenty of noodles to go around. Guests who didn’t want to launch themselves into the beautiful waters of the Adriatic could float around in the pool or hang out in the Jacuzzi. Did I mention that there was always a crew member walking around making sure that everyone had a drink? After dinner, a large screen was hung there and movies shown. On the other hand, if you didn’t like that movie, there was always the piano bar or the casino or karaoke…or a DVD in your room.

I went on the voyage by myself. On Sea Dream, I wasn’t by myself for very long. I can’t remember when I have had the opportunity to meet so many interesting, well-read, well-traveled, bright, funny, intriguing people. My fellow guests were very friendly, and I was soon gathered into a marvelous group of people. We were not assigned dining tables, but we ate together most every evening. During the day, sometimes I ate with one of the couples, sometimes with other people I had met. Sea Dream was impressive, but it was the people I met that made it an astounding experience. Again, work with your charter agent for this bit of heaven.

The first afternoon and evening onboard was spent exploring the yacht and getting to know my fellow passengers. We eventually drifted off to our rooms, knowing the day we would be visiting Korcula, the first stop on our voyage.

According to the tourist brochures, there are 1,000 islands that border Croatia. The Korculan Archipelago boasts 48 islets, the largest of which is Korcula. The medieval town that bears the same name is the cultural center of this island that features some 195 unspoiled bays. Sea Dream anchored off the village, but smaller charter yachts would be able to snuggle into one of the small bays. The water of the area is crystal clear and perfect for swimming. The island itself has some of the most abundant vegetation in the Adriatic, and it is covered with dense woods and aromatic plants. A stroll around the Old Town section of Korcula revealed numerous ancient stone buildings and monuments, including an impressive cathedral. Local legend claims Marco Polo as a native son, and the residents are quite adamant this is the truth. You can visit the Marco Polo House, even if you are hesitant to believe that he was born there. The perimeter of the Old Town section of Korcula is lined with Konobas – outdoor restaurants. The village itself is diminutive and can be explored in a few hours, so there is no need to hurry. In fact, as you wander the narrow streets leading up from the perimeter road, you will find they are often lined with pots of flowers and fruit trees crowd tiny courtyards.

The most intriguing reason to visit Korcula, though, is the “Moreska”; a spectacular fighting dance with swords that has been performed for over four hundred years. Performed once a week, the Moreska is also performed at the Festival of Sword Dances that takes place once a year in the summer. It would be well worth timing your visit to coincide with this extravaganza of wardances with swords, accompanied by the music of the local version of the bagpipes.

Hvar was our next stop, it is the longest island in the Adriatic (42 miles) and the largest in the Pakleni Otoci archipelago. The velvety green islands of the archipelago lie just off shore of Hvar and offer a plethora of anchoring sites for charter yachts to enjoy. The Hvar harbor is quite sheltered and sailing yachts, motor yachts, fishing boats, water taxis and excursion vessels all vie for space. Two sections of the marina area are of particular interest: to the northern end of the harbor, away from the bustle of the main harbor, lies an enclosed marina for small boats. The “mandrac” (from the Greek word mandrake: “sheep pen”) was built sometime in the 15th century. The old section of the main quay is call “Fabrika”, and was built in 1554. Constructed of interlocking slabs, it is one of Europe’s oldest wharves.

The spacious town square, the Pjaca, is lined with Italian tiles, laid in 1537. Much more uneven than the Stratun of Dubrovnik, you will need to be cautious that you don’t take a tumble. The Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace stand guard at the eastern end of the plaza. Now, summon your energy and take a hike up the hill to the fortress! There are two ways to get to the top of the hill: hire a taxi (cheater!) or hike. Inasmuch you’ve probably been eating far too while on your holiday, this is a good chance to walk off some calories. There are a couple of sets of stairs that lead up through the Old Town to the road above. Once there, a sign points you to the fort through an arched stone gate. The path is wide and winding, shaded in many places. A walk of five to ten minutes will bring you to the well-preserved fort. Yes, there is a snack bar there, so grab a cool drink and enjoy the best view on the island!

The swirling activity along the quay of Hvar has a tempo all its own. Tourists wander along looking somewhat dazed, many lugging tote bags overflowing with beach toys. The Konobas do a bustling business, the smell of coffee drifting on the breeze. There are many kiosks, selling everything from jewelry to lavender. (The best prices I found for lavender anywhere in Croatia were here in Hvar.) On the other side of the promenade, the boats line the dock. The men selling day trips to the various islands off Hvar vie for attention, holding up pictures of the beaches their vessels will visit. It is all very entertaining and prim “people watching”. One of the best things to do is to pull up a chair at one of the cafes, order a drink, and watch the show!

Next stop: Trogir. We anchored off this lovely little island and used it as a base to visit both Trogir and Split. Trogir is a tiny island located between the larger island of Ciovo and the mainland. Settled by the Greeks sometime between the 4th and 3rd century BC, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With its unique concentration of palaces, churches, towers and fortress, Trogir certainly deserves it’s nickname “The Stone Beauty”. The historical places to visit are too numerous to mention here. You just will have to pick and choose for yourself when you get there. Even the “regular” building are of such historic beauty that anywhere else they would have a fancy name and a sign out in front!

There is a small wooden footbridge connecting it to the mainland, and a two-lane bridge for cars. The only way to Ciovo Island is by crossing the small bridge onto Trogir, then crossing a drawbridge onto Ciovo. While it sounds quite simple, the traffic tends to back up for miles, approaching Trogir from Split, something to consider if you plan on taking a taxi to Split. There is a wonderful green market that lies just across the bridge from Trogir. I love green markets, the fresh fruits and vegetables never fail to create a riot of color and smells and there is always something that is intriguing. In the Trogir market, the eggs were being sold in plastic bags. No egg cartons here, just 10 eggs in a bag!

Croatia simply has too much to see and do in one visit, or to write about in one article. We will begin in Split for our next article and continue on up the Croatian coast, finishing our trip in Venice. I am sure you are already as excited about Croatia as I was. The best thing to do right now is to call your charter agent and determine what your best plan of action for a visit: Sea Dream or a smaller charter yacht. Either way, you need to hurry before Croatia becomes as crowded as the Cote d’Azur!