| Balearic
Islands | View
a sample itinerary for this location
Floating
dreamily between Spain and the North African coast, lie
the Balearic Islands. The four main islands – Mallorca,
Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera maintain a character distinct
from the rest of Spain and from each other. During the months
of June, July, and August, there is a massive invasion of
multinational sun-and-fun seekers. Hardly surprising considering
what the Balearic Islands have to offer: fine beaches, relentless
sunshine, good food, casinos and wild nightlife.
The best way to
visit, obviously, is by yacht. That way you can enjoy the
craziness, yet escape or avoid it completely if you wish to.
Beyond the 24 hour parties are Gothic cathedrals, Stone Age
ruins, secluded coves and towering mountains. Let’s
start our discovery of the Islands with Formentera, the most
southerly of the larger islands. The smallest of the four
main Balearic Islands, Formentera is actually two small islets
joined together by a narrow, sandy isthmus. Known as the “Forgotten
Balearic”, Formentera is the getaway-from-the-getaway.
Bikers and hikers will revel in the untouched landscapes and
well-marked trails; swimmers will appreciate the sandy beaches
and crystalline water.
The Romans grew
wheat extensively on Formentera, hence its name, as forment
means “cultivation of wheat” in the local dialect.
The island was at various points, inhabited by Phoenicians,
Greeks and Romans. In the Middle Ages constant pirate attacks
made it uninhabitable and the island was abandoned for about
300 years until it was finally safe from pirate attacks. If
you are looking for culture, this isn’t it. The capital,
Sant Francesc de Formentera, is not much more than an 18th
century fortified church, a small ethnological museum and
a cluster of hippy-style craft shops. It lies on the shores
of Estany Pudent, a large lagoon that attracts flocks of migrating
birds. To the west is Estany de Peix, a smaller lagoon protected
as a nature reserve. The island is very arid, covered in wild
rosemary and home to thousands of brilliant green Ibiz wall
lizards. On the northern bank stands the monument of Ca na
Costa. The stone slabs are thought to be a pre-historic burial
ground, dating from about 4,000 years ago. At the eastern
point of Formentera is La Mola, there is a lookout point with
a lighthouse and a monument to Jules Verne. The lack of water
on Formentera keeps development within acceptable limits,
which means the number of people you will be sharing the longest,
whitest beaches in Spain with fewer people than anywhere else
in the Balearics. And, when you are tired of the beach, you
get to return to your yacht, not to a crowded hotel.
Eleven nautical
miles away lies Ibiza – or Eivissa in Catalan –
island of excess. This is where the party crowd from all over
Europe and beyond comes to play and Ibiza City is the capital
– of the island and of the fun. For this hedonistic
crowd, daylight hours are usually spent on the beaches. Streets
are packed with people exploring the whitewashed, warren –
like port area, where many of the boutiques stay open until
2 am. Bars are open until 3:30m or later, and afterward the
action moves to the clubs until daylight, and for the serious
fun seeker, there are more after-hour clubs. Oh, there is
also a casino there that will be happy to help part you with
your money. If clubs and street fashion are not your cup of
tea, avoid July and August. If you absolutely have to come
during those months and yearn for a bit less conviviality,
head away from Ibiza City!
Best
enjoyed during the off season, Ibiza City itself is actually
a very interesting town, complete with a charming old quarter.
When you approach the town from the sea on your charter yacht
you receive the full impact of the sight of old medieval wall
rising like a natural extension of the rocky cliffs protecting
the harbor. A large cathedral located within the walls and
is topped by a massive clock. Illuminated at night, the brilliance
of it shines across the harbor. The stone walls you see when
you are coming into the port reach a dramatic climax at the
imposing main entrance, the Portal de ses Taules, a triple
gateway designed to withstand the heaviest artillery barrage.
To get a glimpse of the island’s ancient past, spend
some time in the Dalt Vila (old town). The site of the cathedral
you glimpse upon entering the harbor has been a place of worship
for over two thousand years, originally occupied by a Carthaginian
temple.
The cathedral’s
Diocesan museum exhibits medieval Catalan art and displays
of ecclesiastical regalia. Across the square from the cathedral
is the Museu Arqueologic d’Eivissa I Formentera, with
its collection of local archeological finds. The majority
of the objects on display are from Phoenician and Carthaginian
sites, but there are also some bones from Formentera that
date back to 1600 BC, plus various Arab and Roman curiosities.
Once away from the
multitude of people in Ibiza City, the beaches and coves are
less crowded, the water more pristine. Working our way around
the island, the east coast has several fine anchorages, perfect
for relaxing either on board or on the beach. Tiny Cala Mastella
is a supremely peaceful spot, with a diminutive sandy beach,
crystal –clear sheltered water and two simple fish restaurants,
excellent places to sample the local food. A bit north is
Cala Boix, another stunning beautiful sandy cove, but slightly
larger and more exposed. Almost at the furthest northeast
point is Cala D’en Serra, a tiny, exquisite sandy cove
with turquoise waters that are perfect for snorkeling.
Heading west from
the Cala D’en Serra, you arrive at Benirras, another
beautiful cove, but this one is backed by high, wooded cliffs.
Benirras is Ibiza’s premier hippie-centric beach where
dozens of throw-backs from the 60’s gather to burn herbs
and pound drums to the setting sun, especially on Sundays.
The southwest side of the island is home to town of Sant Antoni
de Portmany. Most of the people visiting there are on package
tours, so this is a place that you might want to give a miss
to. Cala Salada is just far enough from the village so that
you can anchor and enjoy the fine sand beach and clear waters
without being disturbed by hordes of tourists. At the extreme
south end of Ibiza is Ses Salines. Beaches here are apt to
be filled with party-goers overflowing from Ibiza City during
season, but there is usually tranquility to be found in the
area surrounding the extensive salt flats. Water sports abound
around Ibiza, so you will have plenty of opportunity to try
out all of the toys that are sure to be on your charter yacht.
Scuba diving is excellent in this area, divers will want to
confer with their captain to schedule dives with local dive
shops, so as to maximize their enjoyment underwater.
Cabrera lies just
to the south of Majorca and is the total antithesis of Ibiza.
The entire island was declared a nature preserve in 1991,
with access controlled by the Spanish National Institute for
the Conservation of Nature. The island is a haven of isolation
after the excesses of Ibiza, and indeed, much of the Mediterranean.
Limited permits are available, but must be applied for in
advance. Often the easiest and best way to visit the island
itself is with a tour. Since the island has a strong military
history, with certain parts of it off limits due to unexploded
armaments, a tour might be the smartest way to visit this
island of stunning wildlife and vegetation.
When visiting the
Balearics, most people will fly into and out of, Palma de
Majorca. Serving as the capital of the Balearics, this upbeat
city of 350,000 has a lively cultural scene. Majorca defies
expectations of visitors by presenting them with vistas of
aristocratic mansions and a magnificent Gothic cathedral in
Palma contrasted to the soaring, rugged peaks of the Serra
de Tramuntana mountains along the northwest coast.
Palma was founded
by the Romans in 123 B.C., captured by the Moors in A.D. 903,
and entered the Catalan net in 1229. Approaching Palma on
your charter yacht, the city is both beautiful and impressive,
the wonderful Gothic edifice of the La Seu cathedral with
its magnificent rose window welcoming you into the port. Five
hundred years in the making, the original foundation came
with the Christian Reconquest of the city with the site taken,
in fulfillment of a vow by Jaume I, was that of the Moorish
Great Mosque. Once you have found your way up the narrow streets
and lanes to visit the cathedral, you might as well avail
yourself of a couple of other interesting venues while you
are there. Immediately to the east of the cathedral lies the
Museo de Majorca, where archaeological exhibits and medieval
artworks are displayed in a 17th century mansion. The Museu
d’Art Espanyol Contemporani is home to works by such
great Spanish artists as Picasson, Juan Gris and Dali. Also
of interest is the Palau March Museu with its panoramic sculpture
terrace featuring pieces by Rodin, Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth
and Eduardo Chillida.
The
northwest side of Majorca is at is scenic best when viewing
the gnarled ridge of the Serra de Tramuntana, the imposing
mountain range that is topped by a tortuous cliff-top road.
Music lovers might want to hire a car to make the journey
to the Carthusain Monastery of Validemossa. Its claim to fame
is the romance from the winter of 1838-39 when the French
writer George Sands and her lover, Frederic Chopin, stayed
here. Their time together is recalled by hourly piano concerts,
enjoyed by all. The views from your yacht will be of plunging
sea cliffs and rearing mountain peaks often wreathed in clouds.
The few beaches that dot the shoreline are often small and
shingly. On up the coast, your yacht will round Cap de Formentor
with its lighthouse perched 650 feet above the waves below.
Continuing on you will arrive at Port De Pollenca. With the
mountains as a backdrop, the Badia de Pollenca is a deeply
indented bay rimmed by a thin strip of pure white sand, its
waters perfect for waterskiing and swimming. The next bay
is Badia d’Alcudia, anchored Port d’Alcudia.
A busy resort town
with interesting restaurants and shops, the main focus is
the beach which stretches in an arc of pine-studded golden
sand south of the marina. If you want to rent a bike and go
for a ride, head for the Parc Natural de S’Albufera.
A quick peddle away, it is accessible only by foot or bike.
Stop at the reception center for a map of the footpaths that
radiate out into the reedy, watery tract. There are 10 “hides”
to allow for bird watching. Over two hundred species have
been spotted.
We finish our circumnavigation
of Majorca by following on down the southeast coast, which
is dotted with narrow coves, the remnantsof prehistoric river
valleys. In turn, the real drama of this coast lies in the
island’s 800 or so limestone caves. Two of the most
famous (and fabulous) are the Coves des Hams and the Coves
del Drac. They can only be visited by guided tour, if you
don’t want to experience both, opt for Drac. A tour
of this awesome geological sight with its dripping stalactites,
includes a boat ride across Lago Martel, the largest subterranean
lake in the world. The icing on the cake of this experience
is the boatloads of musicians playing classical music in this
eerie natural amphitheater.
Next stop: the second
largest of the Balearic Islands, boomerang-shaped Menorca.
The least developed of the Balearics, Menorca is essentially
a rural island with rolling fields and wooded ravines. Declared
a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1993, over forty percent of
the island enjoys official protection. Mao, the capital, lies
at the end of a three mile inlet and is one of the safest
harbors in the Mediterranean. Mao has a place in culinary
history as the eighteenth-century birthplace of mayonnaise.
Various stories abound on its creation, all of them involving
the French, some of them very inventive. Take you pick on
enjoy! The town of Citutadella, on the opposite side of the
island of Mao, had originally served as the capital city.
The Romans chose it, the Moors adopted it, the Catlans flattened
the place and began all over again. In 1558, the Catalan-built
town was, in its turn, razed by Turkish corsairs. To the colonial
powers of the eighteenth century, Ciutadella narrow port had
no appeal compared to Mao’s magnificent three mile inlet.
In 1722 the British moved the capital to Mao and constructed
the main island road. More importantly, they introduced the
art of distilling juniper berries. Menorcan gin is renowned
and is certainly worth trying.
Before most of it
was killed off by tourism, agriculture was important. A dry
stone wall protected every field from the tramontana (the
vicious north wind) which rips away the topsoil. Even olive
trees had their roots individually protected in little stone
wells. Now, apart from a few acres of grain, the fields lie
barren with only the walls surviving. The walls are not the
only notable creations made of stone. Menorca is home to over
500 megalithic monuments thought to be linked to those on
Sardinia and classified as part of the second-millennium BC
Talayot culture. Three main types of monument exist: one is
the talayots, which are rock mounds popularly believed to
have functioned as watchtowers. The problem with that theory
is the lack of interior stairways and the fact that only a
few are found on the coast. But no one has really come up
with a better idea, so that theory persists. The second type
is the megalithic taulas- huge stones topped with another
to form a T, around twelve feet high, which are unique to
Menorca. Finally, there are navetas, stone slab construction
dating from 1400 to 800 BC, shaped like an inverted bread
tin. Many have false ceilings, and though most are large enough
for you to stand up in, they were clearly not living spaces.
Theory is they might have been communal pantries or possibly
tombs. Some of the best preserved talayot and taula remains
are on the edge of Mao at the Trepuco site.
Fascinating
as the historical sites are, the best part of Menorca are
the large bays with their many, often-secluded anchorages
and the miles of unspoiled beaches. Located on the northern
coast, Fornells is a small, classically pretty fishing village
at the mouth of a long bay. There are numerous anchorages
here, waiting to be explored. Beaches in this area are apt
to be pebbles and red-ocher sand backed by windy heath. While
they are a bit uncomfortable of sunbathing, they are of such
outstanding beauty to be notable. The wild and rocky coastline
west of Fornells boasts several more of these isolated cove
beaches, perfect for the charter guests looking for the unique.
For those looking for white sand beaches, plenty are located
on the southern end of Menorca, Cala en Turqueta, close to
Ciutadella is one of the most notable.
Four islands, four
distinctly different personalities. The Balearics are perfect
for everyone. Whether you are interested in partying the night
away, secluded anchorages, hiking in the mountains, snorkeling
in clear blue waters or just basking in the relentless Mediterranean
sunshine, the venue is just a short cruise away. Easy to get
to, impossible to forget: Formentera, Ibiza, Majorca and Menorca
are waiting for you.
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