Exploring
the Magnificent Seven
There are times you simply don’t
have time for a full-blown holiday. Yet you want to escape
from reality for awhile, if only a few days. Where can you
go? Someplace where the islands are exotic, yet compact
enough to be able to enjoy several different venues without
having to go hours between anchorages. There are several
answers to this dilemma, but one of the answers is the Aeolian
Islands off the northern coast of Sicily. Yes, you could
spend a week languishing here, but three or four days will
also work well!
Historical, yes. The Greeks colonized
the islands around 580 BC and named them after the mythical
figure Aeolus. According to Homer, Aeolus kept the winds
bottled up in a cove. When Odysseus came by on his trip
home, he was given a favorable wind, but he accidentally
released it from its bag and was blown off course. So the
next time you long to call someone a “windbag”,
think of poor Odysseus! Yes, it is historical here, especially
on the main island of Lipari, but the real reason to visit
is to swim and dive in the crystalline seas.
Lipari is the largest island and
offers the widest selection of restaurants, shops, and things
to do. From a historical point of view, Lipari is the most
interesting of the islands. The main town (also called Lipari)
is a charming village that boasts a largely reconstructed
Norman-era church and a fine archeological museum nearby.
If
you can only convince your compatriots to visit one of these,
choose the museum, as it is more interesting and has the
added perk in that the explanations are written in English!
The oldest part of the castle was built in Greek times,
but the thirteenth-century walls that dominate the structure
are, of course, much more evident. Following the assault
of the Turks, the larger walls were built, and these constitute
the fortress’s present appearance. There
are remains of several towers and other medieval structures
on Lipari, along with additional Greek and Roman ruins.
Not into history and rather go for a hike? The trek to the
top of Mount Sant’Angelo will leave you breathless.
From the exertion, yes, but also from the incredible view.
Well worth the effort!
The Aeolians Islands provide an
outstanding record of volcanic island-building and destruction
and ongoing volcanic phenomena. Inasmuch that the islands
were formed by volcanic activity, each island’s beaches
are of unique character, depending on how old the island
is. The “younger” the island, the blacker the
sand, due to the obsidian in the lava. Lipari boasts lidos
covered with the finest white sand, which is the end product
of black lava.
At one time, Lipari was the talcum
capital of the world, as there were several mines on Lipari.
The very finest powder is unusable even for talcum powder,
and the owners of the mines disposed of this unwanted white
powder by dumping truckloads of it down the hillsides every
evening. So much of it ended up in the ocean that Lipari’s
waters are still the palest blue, even though the dumping
ended decades ago.
Vulcano,
a “younger” extinct volcano, is located very
close to Lipari, separated only by a wide strait. It is
studded with fantastic formations, both above ground and
underwater. Snorkeling will allow you to observe these incredible
creations, but for the full effect, scuba diving is the
preferred form of exploration. The nooks and crannies are
teaming with rainbow color fish and anemones.
Stromboli is the northernmost island
of the archipelago, and the most spectacular for its continuously
active volcano. The volcano’s three mouths belch white
hot rocks and steamy lapillus, which lights up the night
and noisily falls down into the sea. Yes, there are actually
people who live here in two miniscule towns on opposite
sides of the volcano! Not a place to stay for the night,
as there are no harbors or marinas and the seas can get
rough, but an extraordinary place for the scuba divers,
though most of the dives are too deep for a beginner.
Salina is known as the Garden Island.
Capers and Malvasia grapes grown in abundance here. The
Malvaisa grapes are used for the heady malvasia which will
give you a fine headache if you partake of it in abundance.
Better to stick with the capers. If you don’t like
capers, try the local capers packed in salt. You might discover
that it’s the vinegar they are usually packed in that
you don’t like,
not the capers. Either way, the capers won’t give
you the after effects that the malvasia will!
Panarea is tiny, compared to the
other islands, but is the most picturesque with its stark
white houses and brilliant yellow ginestra bushes. Considered
the “jet-set” island, there are three small
but famous hotels and the summer homes of many wealthy Italians.
So if you want to sit at a sidewalk café and watch
for glimpses of the “rich and famous”, this
is the island to hang out on.
Filicudi
takes its name from the rich fern vegetation growing there,
and has an appropriately named peak called Fern Mountain.
Like Salina, the hillsides are terraced and capers is the
industrial mainstay, along with fishing. The coast features
a high, walled profile, interspersed with caves. Notable
among them and commanding a fist is the one named the Sea
Bull Cave. Filicudi is not an island you will want to visit
if you want to sunbathe on a beach, but the underwater vistas
will entrance the divers. The most popular is named “Grotto
of the Sea Lion”. Nearby Alicudi is similar in geographical
features, both on land and under the water, it is simply
smaller.
Alicudi is also more isolated,
as it is only suitable for a day anchorage and is located
enough of a distance away that most people will not want
to spend the time traveling to and from it, only to spend
an hour or so for a dive. Such are the Aeolian Islands,
the so-called Magnificent Seven. Enough variety to keep
you entertained, but close enough together, and to Sicily
to facilitate a quick holiday. And sometimes, that is all
you need… a quick trip to somewhere wonderful where
you can renew your spirit with beautiful vistas. The Aeolian
Islands, waiting for you to discover them.
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