Bon Bini! Welcome to Aruba,
Bonaire and Curacao, affectionately known as the
ABCs. Bonaire and Curacao are part of the Netherland
Antilles; Aruba separated from the group in 1986
and became an autonomous part of the Kingdom of
the Netherlands. As a visitor to the islands, you
will find very little difference in the day to day
life, since Dutch is the official language, Papiamentu
is the indigenous language, English is the language
of commerce and Spanish is thrown into the mixture
since South America is so close. Yes, the ABCs are
independent, but rather like a college student is
independent - right up until they run out of money;
then the college student phones home, and so do
the ABCs!
The
weather is nothing short of perfect for the guests
visiting the islands. Flat and arid, they have no
high mountains to catch the rain clouds, so the days
are bright and sunny. The cool waters of the Atlantic
Ocean surround them, keeping the average temperature
between 78 and 82 degrees. The wind blows. Hard. The
local fishermen go to sea in small boats, which is
not for the faint of heart. Better to travel between
islands on a nice, comfortable charter yacht! The stunning beauty of the
region is the direct result of the ancient natural
history, so letís peek back in time, say about 90
million years ago. This was a time when volcanoes
were erupting on a massive scale in the eastern Pacific
Ocean. Plate tectonics shifted the earthís crust around
and moved the Caribbean plate to the east. It rode
up over the edge of the Atlantic plate, eventually
reaching its current position in the Caribbean. Fast
forward 70 million years to about 20 million years
ago: As the Caribbean plate moved slowly eastward,
the edge struck the South American continent and the
ABCs got stuck on the side, only 45 miles from Venezuela.
Eventually, coral reefs formed around the islands,
growing around and on top of the existing rocks. Further
plate movement lifted some of the reefs into the air
where they formed the flat limestone terraces that
fringe the island today. In fact, if you travel along
the north side of Aruba (rent a 4-wheel drive, youíll
need it), you can see the old coastline evidenced
in the terrace cliffs. Archeological findings suggest
that the first inhabitants to the islands rowed over
from the South American mainland around 2500 BC. The
Caiquitios, an Arawak speaking group arrived about
500 BC, apparently chased from Venezuela by the violent
Carib tribe. The Caiquitios, a gentle people who lived
by fishing and farming, lived for almost 2000 years
in peace, until the arrival of the Spanish in 1500
AD. Almost immediately, the Spanish wiped out the
natives, deporting them to Hispaniola as slaves for
the mines. Having disposed of the local population,
the Spanish established only a small colony as they
were disappointed at the lack of gold and silver,
and dubbed Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao ìLas Islas Inutilesî,
ìthe useless islandsî. Typical of greedy people, they
were only looking for easy, quick riches and never
figured out that there was indeed gold on Aurba. Over
3 million pounds of gold ore were excavated there
during the Aruban goldrush of the 19th Century. The
ruins of the Bushiribana gold smelter are still standing
and waiting for you to explore. In 1633, the Dutch, having
lost the island of St. Maarten to the Spanish, retaliated
by capturing Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao. What followed
was a truly dark part of the ABCs history, rivaling
the deportation of the natives. In the 17th century,
the Dutch became leader in the international slave
trade. The Dutch West India Company purchased enslaved
Africans and transported them to Brazil and Curacao.
Curacao was one of the largest slave depots in the
Caribbean, though relatively few slaves remained on
the island itself. Bonaire became a plantation of
the WIC, where the slaves were put to work harvesting
solar salt around Blue Pan. Slave quarters, rising
no higher than about 4 feet, still stand on Bonaire.
After the abolition of slavery in 1863, many of the
former slaves stayed on as sharecroppers. ìModernî history really started
in the beginning of the 20th century with the discovery
of oil in Lago Maracaibo, a short distance away in
Venezuela. Oil concerns looked for suitable deepwater
harbors close by and, for economical and political
reasons, they searched for refineries outside the
country. Aruba and Curacao were perfect choices due
to their deepwater harbors (oil tankers can be as
deep as 90 feet below the waterline of the ship) and
the fact that they were also en route to the Panama
Canal. Bonaire does not have refineries, and allows
only bunkering. The late 1950ís saw the beginning
of the tourism industry, which continues yet today.
Now that you have an appreciation of the history of
the area, letís explore this paradise! The logical
starting place is Aruba. With non-stop flights from
Miami, getting there couldnít be easier. Not to mention
that on the way back to the U.S., you clear customs
and immigrations in Aruba, which is much easier than
waiting until Miami or Puerto Rico or any other airport
one can think of. Perfect white sand beaches,
great snorkeling and diving, stunning sunsets, dirt
tracks on the North side of the island for the adventurous
to explore, exciting nightlife, terrific food and
lots of shopping - what more could one want? The shopping
on Aruba is the most extensive of the three islands.
After Hurricane Hugo hit St. Thomas, many of the upscale
stores re-located to Aruba to wait for stores to be
rebuilt on St. Thomas. So, many of the same stores
that grace St. Thomas are also found in Oranjestad,
only in a more manageable venue. Oranjestad is small
enough to be comfortable, but large enough to be home
to all of the tony shops you expect in a shopping
mecca: Cartier, Gucci, Little Switzerland, with a
McDonaldís close by to make you feel at home. However,
go local for a snack with a pastechi (pass te she),
a deep-fried pastry-roll stuffed with cheese or ham
or both or whatever the cook happens to have on hand.
Yum. The beaches are simply stunning.
Whether you choose to take a taxi over from your charter
yacht, or have your captain anchor offshore and take
you in via the tender, donít miss the beach. There
are lots of little docks jutting out into the water
with pubs on them, a perfect place to kick back and
relax and watch the action, or the sun as it sets
behind your charter yacht! (A word about the taxis:
they donít have meters and it is best to ask the price
before the ride. It should be about $10 for two people
to go from the airport to the marina in Oranjestad.)
For people who canít sit
still, for heavenís sake, rent a 4-wheel drive vehicle
and drive the ìroadî on the northern coast. Starting
at the California Lighthouse, you will see faint tracks
on the flat area by the water crashing on the rocks.
Yes, that is the road! Rough, dirty and lots of fun,
this dirt road will lead you to some of the best sites
on the island: the Chapel of Alto Vista, the ruins
of the gold smelter, the natural bridges (you have
to look for some of them, they arenít all marked),
the natural pool and the Fontein Caves and Ancient
Indian Markings. Some of the sights are marked, some
not at all, and some have little hand painted signs
pointing the way. There is an area near the beginning
where people have built thousands of little ìspirit
hutsî by piling stones on top of each other. Take
time to make your own, and when you have finished
with your creation, make a wish! (Hint: For this excursion,
take water. This is a natural area, and, except by
the largest natural bridge, there are no refreshment
stations anywhere!) As much as you would like
to stay on Aruba, tear yourself away and have your
captain head on over to Curacao, located approximately
100 miles from Aruba. The capital of Curacao is Willemstad,
which is great fun, though your captain will probably
anchor in one of the magnificent bays, or perhaps
dock at Caracas Bay. Willemstad is a very busy commercial
port and hence, not so great for pleasure craft. That
being said, by all means, take a taxi into Willemstad
and enjoy it! There are a couple of things to know
that will make your explorations more fun. The buildings
are all painted a virtual rainbow of bright colors.
Legend has it that an 18th century Governor suffered
from migraine headaches. He decided that it was because
of the blinding light of the sun as it bounced off
the buildings, all whitewashed to reflect its rays.
He issued a royal decree ordering everyone to paint
their houses. Of course, legend goes on to say that
he also held stock in the paint factory, too! Whether
or not it is correct, it is a fun story, and the buildings
are definitely colorful!
The second thing to know about Willemstad is that
it is separated into two sides: Punda and Otrobanda.
Punda (ëthe pointî) and Otrobanda (ìthe other sideî)
are separated by water, but connected via a beautiful
floating bridge.
The bridge is opened and
closed to allow the ships in and out, but if the
bridge is open and you want to get across the water,
never fear. There are two ferry boats, run by the
Port Authority that cross back and forth constantly,
and they are free.
Punda is the side that bustles
with the activity. Plenty of shopping, with a few
of the upscale stores in evidence, such as Little
Switzerland, but mainly bargain stores that are great
fun to poke around in. Prices will be in Netherland
Antilles Guilder (a.k.a. Florin), exchange rate is
$1 U.S. = 1.78 Naf. American dollars are accepted
everywhere, though you will most likely receive your
change in guilders. Credit cards are also readily
accepted. This currency information is the same for
all three islands. Be sure to visit the floating
market place, which actually isnít floating. A fruit
and vegetable market, the items are brought up from
Venezuela in the workboats that dock behind the stalls
of the marketplace. So the boats are floating - the
food items are not! The whole area is very colorful
and the people are very friendly. Depending on how
proficient your Spanish/Dutch/sign language is, you
can learn what most of the unusual foodstuffs are.
You surely wonít find piles of dried salt fish at
your local supermarket like you do here! When you get tired of shopping,
there is a lot more to do around the island. The surrounding
waters will excite even the most jaded divers. Christoffel
Park, in the interior of Curacao is 4,500 acres of
protected land, home to deer, donkeys, iguanas and
tropical birds. There is a dolphin sanctuary where
you can swim with the dolphins. There are old forts
to explore. And when you are done with everything
and have really worked up a thirst, go visit the Amstel
Brewery, they give tours - and samples! All of the
money collected from the admission to the brewery
($1 US/person) is donated to a local charity. So you
can have fun and feel like you have done some good,
too.
The most intimate of the three ABCs is Bonaire.
So lovely that upon discovering its incredible perfection,
one wants to hide the knowledge away, jealous of
letting too many people know about it, that they
might come and spoil it. But Bonaire, long aware
of its unsurpassed natural beauty, has established
its entire coastline as a Marine Park to ensure
that generations of people would be able to enjoy
it. The diving and snorkeling in Bonaire is simply
superb. Visibility is almost always at least 100
feet. The amount of marine life is staggering, be
it tropical fish, corals, squadrons of squid, or
forests of Christmas Tree worms in every color imaginable.
If you are not a diver, no problem, you can always
learn while you are there, or just snorkel!
There are massive salt
production pans on the southwest side of the islands.
Interesting to note that as the salt water evaporates
the color becomes pink as the water condenses. The
shrimp that thrive in the water are eaten by the
flamingos (and there are flocks of them everywhere),
which results in extremely pink flamingos. The northwest
side of the island is the Washington Slagbaai National
Park. Be warned: the park closes at 5 PM, and you
will not be allowed in after 2:45. It is recommended
that you have at least half a tank of gas, and it
is further suggested that you enter only with a
vehicle with high ground clearance. This is not
a park for wimps.
With all of the adventures
available, make sure you take time to enjoy the
capital of Bonaire, Kralendijk. One of the ways
to remember how to pronounce this gem of a village
is to remember how to pronounce this gem of a village
is to remember the little Dutch boy who stuck his
finger in the dike. . Only here he would “crawl
in dike”, rather than “finger in dike”.
And that is pretty much how to pronounce Kralendijk!
The town is extremely clean, very friendly and has
wonderful food. The pub that is on the wharf that
sticks out into the harbor is great fun. Be prepared
to hear Karaoke in 3 languages.